Vikings in Scotland, a Visit to the Brough of Birsay

Causeway to the Brough of Birsay, Orkney

On the day of my visit, winds gusted to 50 mph as thick furrows of clouds menaced on the horizon. It was fitting, I thought, given the demeanor of the island’s most notorious resident, Thorfinn Sigurdsson, the Viking earl of Orkney. He was described in the Viking history of Orkney, The Orkneyinga Saga, as “…the tallest and strongest of men, ugly, black-haired, sharp-featured, and big-nosed, and with somewhat scowling brows.” Continue Reading →

A Sweet Spot in Brittany: La Fée Cabosse Chocolat

La Fée Cabosse Chocolat - Dinan, Brittany, France

Perhaps one of the most attractive and well-preserved towns in the region is Dinan, an 11th century walled village that straddles the graceful Rance River. One of my favorite epicurean discoveries while staying in Dinan was the La Fée Cabosse Chocolat shop. Passersby are likely to find themselves as helpless as Hercules in Circe’s grasp when resisting the urge to enter. Continue Reading →

Five Places to go Medieval

From Robin Hood to Star Wars, the Middle Ages have kept a tight grip on our imaginations. We’re drawn to the clash of steel against steel, the pageantry of a royal court, or the bawdiness of a peasant tavern. Whether you want to take a deep dive into medieval life or a momentary trip back in time, here are five portals into the gothic past. 1. Castello di Amorosa, Calistoga In 1995, vintner and modern-day Don Quixote, Dario Sattui, began a 15-year quest to build an authentically styled 13th century castle in Napa Valley. The resulting 121,000 square foot compound boasts a drawbridge, secret passageways and 107 rooms. General admission includes a tasting in the main bar and roaming access to part of the castle. Or take the full guided tour which also includes a private tasting. Open daily except Christmas Day. 4045 N. St. Helena Hwy. (707) 967-6272. www.castellodiamorosa.com. 2. Knight School, Ramona (San Continue Reading →